Bagan (Pagan)

The main tourist destination in Myanmar is Bagan, capital of the first Myanmar Empire; one of the richest archaeological sites in South-east Asia. Situated on the eastern bank of the Ayeyawaddy River, it is reached by a 90 minute flight from Yangon. The 42 sq km area of Bagan contains over 2000 edifices, the well-preserved pagodas and temples representing the rich cultural heritage of the 11th - 13th century.

The town of Bagan (formerly spelled as "Pagan"), central Myanmar (Burma), situated on the left bank of the Irrawaddy River and approximately 90 miles (145 km) southwest of Mandalay. The site of an old capital city of Myanmar, Pagan is a pilgrimage centre and contains ancient Buddhist shrines that have been restored and redecorated and are in current use. Ruins of other shrines and pagodas cover a wide area. An earthquake on July 8, 1975, severely damaged more than half of the important structures and irreparably destroyed many of them. The whole of the Buphaya Pagoda, for nine centuries a landmark for river-boatmen, tumbled into the Irrawaddy and was carried off by the waters. The village also has a school for lacquerware, for which the region is noted.
Pagan's importance lies in its heritage rather than its present. It was first built probably in AD 849 and, from the 11th century to the end of the 13th, was the capital of a region roughly the size of modern Myanmar. In 1287 it was overrun by the Mongols during their wide-ranging conquests, and it never recovered its position, though a little desultory building continued on Buddhist shrines.

Old Pagan was a walled city, its western flank resting on the Irrawaddy River. It was the focus of a network of high roads by means of which its rulers could command a large region of fertile plains and could dominate other major Myanmar dynastic cities, such as Pegu. From the port of Thiripyissaya, further down the river, important overseas trade was conducted with India, Ceylon, and other regions of Southeast Asia. The walls of the old city, within which lies a substantial area of the modern town, probably originally contained only royal, aristocratic, religious, and administrative buildings. The populace is thought to have lived outside in homes of light construction closely resembling those occupied by the present-day inhabitants. The walled city, whose moats were fed by the Irrawaddy, was thus a sacred dynastic fortress. The circuit of its walls and river frontage is some 2.5 miles (4 km), and there is evidence that perhaps as much as a third of the old city has been washed away by the river. Because building was principally in brick, decoration was carried out in carved brick, in stucco, and in terra-cotta. The earliest surviving structure is probably the 10th-century Nat Hlaung Gyaung. The shrines that stand by the Sarabha Gate in the eastern wall, although later than the wall they adjoin, are also early. These are shrines of protecting nats--the traditional spirit deities of the animist ethnic Burmans.

Between about 500 and 950, people of the Burman ethnic group had been infiltrating from the north into a region occupied by other peoples; these people already had been converted to Indian religion, especially the Mahayana Buddhism of Bihar and Bengal. Under King Anawrahta (reigned 1044-77), the ethnic Burmans finally conquered the other peoples of the region, including a people called the Mon, who were previously dominant in the south. They transported the Mon royal family and their scholars and craftsmen to Pagan, making it the capital and centre of an official, fundamentalist form of Hinayana (Theravada) Buddhism adopted from Ceylon (Sri Lanka), about 1056. This initiated the period of Pagan's greatness, which was sustained at first by Mon artistic traditions. The enormous number of monasteries and shrines built and maintained during the next 200 years was made possible both by the great wealth of the royal exchequer and by the large number of slaves, skilled and unskilled, whose working lives were dedicated to the support of each institution. The city became one of the most important centres of Buddhist learning.

Lesser buildings are grouped around the more important pagodas and temples. Scattered around these are smaller pagodas and buildings, some of which may once have been aristocratic palaces and pavilions later adapted to monastic uses--e.g., as libraries and preaching halls. All are based on Indian prototypes, modified during subsequent development by the Mon. The principal architectural theme is the Buddhist stupa, a tall bell dome, designed originally to contain near its apex the sacred relics of Buddhist saints. Another is the high, terraced plinth, which may be supplemented by stairs, gateways, extra stupas, and pinnacles and symbolizes a sacred mountain. During the course of artistic evolution the themes were frequently combined, and the combination opened into a complex rectangular hall with porticos extended from the sides, crowned by a stupa or, in some cases, by a rectangular tower of curved outline reminiscent of the contemporary Indian Hindu shrine tower. Interior arches and vaults, both rounded and pointed, are, however, constructed by a true radiating-arch technique that was not used in India. A vista across the site of Pagan shows a series of variations and combinations of the themes. Many buildings, especially those no longer in use and hence unrestored, bear substantial remains of external, decorative stucco and terra-cotta (adding flamboyance to the finely proportioned rectilinear structures) and internal paintings and terra-cottas recording Buddhist legend and history.

Anawrahta constructed the Shwezigon pagoda. Nearby he built a nat shrine with images. The Shwezigon is a huge, terraced pyramid, square below, circular above, crowned by a bell-shaped stupa of traditional Mon shape and adorned with stairways, gates, and decorative spires. It is much revered and famous for its huge golden umbrella finial encrusted with jewels. It was considerably damaged in the earthquake of 1975. Also revered are the late 12th-century pyramidal Mahabodhi, built as a copy of the temple at the site of the Buddha's enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, in India, and the Ananda temple mountain just beyond the east gate, founded in 1091 under King Kyanzittha. By the time the Thatpyinnyu temple was built (1144), Mon influence was waning, and a Burman architecture had evolved. Its four stories, resembling a two-staged pyramid, and its orientation are new. Its interior rooms are spacious halls, rather than sparsely lit openings within a mountain mass, as in the earlier style. This building combined the functions of stupa, temple, and monastery. The Burman style was further developed in the great Sulamani temple and culminated in the Gawdawpalin, dedicated to the ancestral spirits of the dynasty (late 12th century), whose exterior is decorated with miniature pagodas, the interior with extremely lavish, coloured surface ornament.

Where to Visit in Bagan

Bagan Museum
An interesting museum stands close to Ananda Temple, which houses a large number of images and other fine art works found in temples around Bagan.

Ananda Temple
Probably the finest largest and best preserved of all the Bagan temples. Ananda Temple suffered considerable damage in the earthquakes in history. Built by King Kyanzitthar (AD 1064-1113), the temple is said to represent the endless wisdom of the Buddha. The central square has sides of 175 feet (53m) and rises in terraces to the crown 168 feet high. In the center of the cube are 4 famous standing Buddha images of 31 feet (9.5m) height. The base and terraces are decorated with a great number of glazed tiles showing scenes from the earlier lives of Buddha. In the western sanctum there are life size statues of the temple's founder and his primate while in the west porch there are two footprints of Buddha on pedestals.

Sarabha Gateway
The ruins of the main gate on the east wall are all that remain of the old 9th century city. The gate is guarded by brother and sister angels, finding brother in the left, and the sister in the right. Traces of old stucco can still be seen on the gateway.

Thatbyinnyu Temple
The name itself stands for "The Omniscience", and is the highest temple in Bagan, rising up to 200 feet (61m) and was built by Alaungsithu (AD 1113-1167) too. In a monastery compound slightly southwest of the temple there are stone supports which one held the temple's huge bronze bell. Northeast of the temple stands a small Tally Pagoda, which was built of one brick per 10,000 bricks used in the main temple.

Shwe Gugyi Temple
Built by King Alaungsithu (AD 1113-1167), this temple is an early example of a transition in architectural styles which resulted in airy lighter buildings. The temple is also notable for its fine stucco carvings and for the stone slabs in the inner wall, which tell its history including the fact that its construction took seven months only.

Bagan Library (Pitakat Taik)
Following the fall of Thaton Kingdom in the south, King Anawrahtar (AD 1044-1077) brought 30-elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures and built this library to house them in 1058. It was repaired in 1738. The architecture of the square building is notable for the perforated stone windows and the plaster carvings on the roof in imitation of Myanmar wood carvings.

Thandawgyar Image
This 19-feet (6m) high stone Buddha image was built in 1284.

Sulamani Temple
This temple is similar to Htilominlo and the Gawdawpalin in architecture but with better interior lighting. It stands beyond the Dhammayangyi Temple and was built in 1181 by Narapatisithu (AD 1174-1211). The interior was once painted with fine frescoes but only dim traces can be seen today.

Bupaya Pagoda (Bu Pagoda)
Situated right on the river bank of the Ayeyarwady, this pagoda has been claimed to be the oldest in Bagan, dating back to 3rd century AD. The shape is extraordinary being in the shape of a gourd.

Gawdawpalin Temple
It is one of the largest temples in Bagan, built during the reign of King Narapatisithu. Severly damaged by the earthquake of 1975. The tip of the temple, was as high as 180 feet (55m).

Gubyaukgyi Temple (Wetkyi-in)
A 13th century temple with a spire resembling the Mahabodhi Temple at Buddha Gaya in India: the Gubyaukgyi is noted for its wall paintings, depicting scenes from the previous lives of the Buddha.

Htilominlo Temple
Built by King Nadaungmya in 1211: the 50 metres high Htilominlo is one of the largest temples of Bagan; and is noted for its fine plaster carvings.

Dhammayangyi Temple
This massive temple: built by King Narathu in the 12th century, displays the finest brickwork in Bagan.

Shwezigon Pagoda
Built by King Anawrahta, founder of the first Myanmar Empire, and finished by King Kyansittha in 1084; the Shwezigon was held in special reverence by successive kings and became the prototype for later Myanmar pagodas.


Where to Visit near Bagan (Pagan)

Mount Popa
About 67 km southeast of Bagan is Mount Popa, an extinct volcano over 1,500 metres high, rising out of the plains. It is famed as the abode of the Mahagiri Nats or Spirit gods to whom the Kings of Bagan paid annual homage and their shrines can be seen at a nearby rocky crag.

Travelling to Bagan by Land

Bagan, the ancient city in Central Myanmar is accessible by road, by train and by air. The distance between Yangon and Bagan is 684 kilometers by road. The road passes through the plains, mostly cultivated. The crop land on either side is part of the 8.8 million cultivated hectares of Myanmar. Along the road, travellers can see emerald green paddy fields of varying sizes. Occasionally, they will notice a white-washed pagoda or two on hill tops. They will also pass some cities and towns.

The first stretch of the road is from Yangon to Bago, 80 kilometers long. The road passes through the Bago plain. Paddy fields are on either side of the road. Bago Division is a major producer of paddy, the staple food of the nation. Indagaw lies 58 km from Yangon. It is located at the southern edge of the Bago Yoma mountain range and it is the base of the Rubber Plantations Development Project. According to the slogan, "We shall cover the Yoma with white gold", the plantations stretch northward along the base of the Bago Yoma.

Bago is an ancient capital of the Mon Kingdom of Hanthawady. There are many places of interest such as Shwemawdaw Pagoda, Shwethalyaung reclining Buddha image, Mahazedi Pagoda, Kyaikpun Image, Kalyani Sima and the reconstructed Palace of King Bayintnaung.

Next major town after Bago on the way is Toungoo, 200 km away. It is also an ancient capital. Vestiges of the city wall, and the moat stand witness to the town's past. From Toungoo, a road extends to Shan Yoma in the east reaching the northern part of Kayin State and Kayah State. Thandaung, a hill resort in Kayah State, is also accessible by this road.

Toungoo is famous for its products bananas, tea, coffee, betel nuts and cardamom. Then, comes Pyinmana, 110 km from Toungoo. Just beyond the town, there lies the Yezin Dam. The Yezin Agricultural Institute and the Institute of Animal Husbandry are also located in Pyinmana Township.

After Pyinmana, the road enters the Meiktila plain. The rain is scarce in the area. The rainfall in the area is recorded less than 125 cm a year. So, vegetation and crops in the area are different. Travellers will not see paddy fields; they will see the fields of groundnut and sesamum, traditional oil crops. There also are fields of beans and pulses, export items.

The next major town in Central Myanmar is Meiktila, 150 km drive From Pyinmana. Meiktila Lake, which is situated in the centre of the town, is famous. It provides peaceful atmosphere and fresh air. The town serves as the point of access to Shan State in the east, the capital of which is Taunggyi. The highway from Yangon goes on to Mandalay in the north. Bagan-bound travellers will have to follow the road extending to the west. The next town is Kyaukpadaung, 96 km away from Meiktila. They will see a lot of toddy palms on either side of the road. Then, Kyetmauktaung Hill will come into view. There is Kyetmauktaung Dam which irrigates the crop-land in the surrounding areas.
The last stretch of the road from Kyaukpadaung to Bagan is 48 km. Travellers will see Mount Popa in the distance. As it is over 1,500 metres high the area gets rain when the rain clouds pass over it. Mt. Popa is important for the area.

In addition to the scenic view along the road to Bagan, the roadside is of interest with local products and delicacies.

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